Naxos Greece--The Cyclades "Big Island" Brimming with Undiscovered Charms

Naxos is the largest of the Greek Cyclades island group in the southern Aegean. It’s about an hour by ferry from Santorini and, as the crow flies, less than 9 miles from Paros (30 mins via ferry). Naxos has a fertile, yet scrubby, terrain with some of the most inviting beaches on any Greek island. It also charms with its mountains and villages, picturesque windmills, busy farms, ancient ruins, and marvelous marble. With family-friendly restaurants, reasonable accommodations, and the relative quiet that comes from very few cruise ship crowds venturing here, it’s the Cyclades’ best kept secret.

As a quieter locale, it’s a wonderful place to experience the famous Greek life style. The photo below is the pretty Port of Naxos harbor. Our accommodation was within walking distance of this inviting sea; this was the basic view we had every morning and night. Sublime!

Naxos Harbor view from Avaton restaurant with paros island in the distance

We spent a full week on Naxos. It was eye-popping! From tourist-saturated Santorini, we’d arrived by ferry to Naxos’s most serene setting—a serenity that lasted for weeks after we returned home. We’d rented a Booking.com apartment right at waterside (pictured). From here, we had walking access to grocery stores, bakeries, shopping, night clubs, tavernas, boats for hire, the ferries, and some of the best people watching in Greece!

John waving from our naxos apartment

An advantage of staying at the harbor near the “Old Town” was that we could wander around the shops and eateries during the day or night. The painted walkways, ancient stone staircases, and flower-laden walls pergolas created a very romantic feel.

Flowering passageway in Old Town

They’ve done a lot to create a magical ambience here with whimsical bicycles, hanging lamps, and colorful bric-a-brac. You’ll also come across another local species that is much loved in Naxos—cats! They are everywhere. But they’re quite regal in how they wander around and are cared for by the locals (and tourists)!

Whimsical naxos decor

Cats are Naxos royalty

Unlike other Cycladic islands, Naxos is rich in resources with an excellent water supply. Thus it’s the most “self-sufficient” island in the group. In addition to gorgeous beaches and picturesque villages, it’s also famous for its marble (some helped build the Acropolis), hand-made textiles, pottery, cattle breeding, Arseniko Naxou cheese, famous Naxion potatoes, Kitron (a local lemon-citrus spirit), and Naxian honey (derived from the nectar of thyme.)

Naxos Products Map

We truly loved the food here; not only did we enjoy a cooking class up in the mountains, every evening we wandered to yet a new taverna and had some of the best food in Greece! Plus it’s very affordable.

Mixed souvlaki with Naxian Fried Potatoes

Our cooking class in the mountains at Basiliko was a charming half-day affair. About 20 of us gathered together; for starters we wandered the farm with our guide, selecting produce for our cooking experience, meeting the local farm animals, and learning about agriculture on Naxos.

Pj in Basiliko’s garden

hand picked vegetables ready for cooking class

Once we had our produce selected we spent the afternoon prepping a number of classic Greek dishes (while sipping delicious Naxos wine). At last we sat down to taste our hard work in classic family style!

Afterward, we danced some classic Greek dances and broke white plates for good luck!

A famous must-see on Naxos is the ancient Portara (Temple of Apollo). Night or day, these marble ruins are a majestic sight that dominates the Naxos harbor. It’s a short walk from the harbor and well worth the stroll.

pj at the Portara at daybreak

There is much to do here. Swimming, sunbathing, hiking, sailing, fishing, driving through the rustic hills, seeing museums and wineries, and visiting the various hamlets like Apeiranthos village, the marble city, are just a few. Along the way there are plenty of tavernas with classic Greek food, some with stellar views. Cars, dune buggies, motorcycles, and bikes are all available for hire.

riding in the naxos hills

scenic dinner at rotonda restaurant

Last, Naxos has many pristine beaches like Plaka, a long sandy beach with sunbeds, water sports, and tavernas. Another favorite is Agios Prokopios Beach, a lengthy bay with white sand and clear blue water. Naxos also has a windy side where wind surfing and kitesurfing are fantastic at Mikri Vigla and Amitis Beaches!

Windsurfing on naxos

Naxos is well worth a visit. But shhhh…don’t let anyone else know!

Sultry Santorini--Instagram Ready Just for You

Sultry Santorini--Instagram Ready Just for You

Blue Water sweeps up from the depths of the caldera. White washed buildings capped by bright blue domes glisten in the sun. Lovelies in bikinis or billowy dresses pose against the sunset. Grilled sardines, sizzling souvlaki, and honey sweet baklava beckon. Greek melodies waft through the byways and dancers sway barefoot on cool marble. Seductive Santorini is ready for you.

Read More

2022: Welcoming in a Hopeful New Year

2022: Welcoming in a Hopeful New Year

As we bid adieu to a turbulent 2021 and say hello yet again to a new beginning, we may have mixed feelings.

I love this photo (above) of French college pals enjoying a champagne holiday. They beam with the carefree abandon of youth. Many things changed in the world they’ve inherited five years hence. Older and wiser now, we share along with them a pandemic-shadowed world that is curbing some celebrations. And dampening hopes.

Still others, young or seasoned, are nevertheless popping the bubbly with a no-holds-barred approach to embracing 2022.

Read More

Holiday Markets in Europe: Montreux, Switzerland

Holiday Markets in Europe: Montreux, Switzerland

The best Christmas market in French-speaking Switzerland, and one of the largest in the country, is the Marché de Noël à Montreux. This traditional Christmas market spreads along the Lake Geneva lake-side quays. (Interestingly, French speakers call Lake Geneva Lac Léman. And in German, it is called der Genfersee.)

Montreux is known as the pearl of the Swiss Riviera. The setting is indeed picture perfect with snow-capped mountains rising above crystal blue waters and jazzy holiday music playing everywhere. This is the home of the famous summer Montreux Jazz Festival after all—and there’s a hip, jazzy vibe to the entire locale.

Read More

Holiday Markets in Europe: Prague, Czech Republic

Holiday Markets in Europe: Prague, Czech Republic

The Christmas markets in Old Town Square in the center of Prague are the largest celebrations of their kind in the Czech Republic. Studded by a gigantic 22-metre tall lavishly decorated Christmas tree you can probably see from space, dozens of wooden stalls fan out on the pretty square and beyond.

Here, merchants offer typical Christmas goods and items such as traditional Czech blown glass balls, products made of glass pearls or straw, hand-embroidered tablecloths, wooden toys, biscuit cutters, traditional Czech fabrics and foodstuffs, specialty beer and wine, and many other offerings…

Read More

Holiday Markets in Europe: Strasbourg, France

Holiday Markets in Europe: Strasbourg, France

Holiday Markets are preparing for celebrations as worldwide travel is opening up again—at last!

As I also prepare to head back to Switzerland and Austria to visit some of the most beautiful holiday venues in the world, I thought a celebration of past holiday markets might be just the thing to spark some of that holiday joy. First up is Strasbourg, one of the most popular Alsatian locales in eastern France.

Read More

Splendid Waterways: Italy, Switzerland, France, Washington DC, Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand, and England

Splendid Waterways: Italy, Switzerland, France, Washington DC, Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand, and England

Is there anything more mesmerizing than the shimmering blues of a beautiful waterway, be it pool, lake, river, canal, estuary, or sea? We can’t resist the beauty of these watery venues—and have traveled far and wide to capture them in words and images. Here are a few of our favorites.

Read More

Paris--When it Sizzles

Paris--When it Sizzles

It’s summertime in Paris. Parisians are out, enjoying the freedom and the fun. Paris is a summertime kind of city. Markets are brimming with dazzling fruits and vegetables. Fish and fowl are plentiful. Cheese and wine are on the menu. People are soaking up the rays. Kids are playing in the sunshine. And a stroll—or a kiss—by the Seine anytime day or night is sublime.

Tourists of course flock to Paris in the summer. But what are Parisians doing? Here’s a look.

Read More

French Love: “I’ll be a poet, and you’ll be poetry.”

French Love: “I’ll be a poet, and you’ll be poetry.”

Passion and romance are inextricably linked in the French concept of amour. It is everywhere in France. And when I’ve been wandering around Paris alone, I even get a few appreciative glances myself (just like the woman behind me; French men are equal-opportunity flirts)!

French men ARE flirtatious. But to the French, it’s all in good fun.

Sex without romance would be considered gauche. But sometimes the French have a unique way of conducting “flirtation.”

Read More

Wine Tasting Bordeaux Style, Part Two

Wine Tasting Bordeaux Style, Part Two

Bordeaux Wine tasting in Southwestern France and surrounding areas is plentiful. And you will have your choice of low cost large group bus tours, small group guided tours, or intimate (and relatively expensive) private tours. We like to try several wine tasting venues when visiting an area, but our favorite is one or two personalized tours of high-end estates. These are two of our Bordeaux favorites: Château Kirwan and Château Pontet-Canet.

Read More

Cordes-Sur-Ciel, A Magical French Village on a Hill

Cordes-Sur-Ciel, A Magical French Village on a Hill

Off the main tourist route in the Tarn department between the Dordogne and the wine rich Languedoc is the village of Cordes-Sur-Ciel. The name means “rocky heights above the clouds” because the elevation of the village above the surrounding countryside means that the 1,000 inhabitants often wake up to sunshine above the mist shrouded fields below.

Read More

Wine Tasting Bordeaux Style, Part One

Wine Tasting Bordeaux Style, Part One

When I first made my way to Bordeaux in Southwestern France, I drove in from Barcelona, Spain. I sped west toward along the fantastic superhighway that stretches across southern France. My little Citroën soon entered the Bordeaux region via small roads cutting through the wine fields of Saint-Émilion.

Grapes!

I was enveloped immediately by ripe grape aromas and an earthy smell that hinted at dark soil, freshly mowed grass, and fermenting juices. As I passed by wine château (estates) and the local rivers that bring a palpable moistness to the area, it felt like ripe molecules were practically seeping into my pores. This is one of the most famous wine regions in the world to visit. And it does not disappoint, especially when you get to sample the liquid delights of a region that produces some of the most famous wines on the planet.

Read More

Enchanting Bordeaux: The Paris of Southwestern France

Enchanting Bordeaux: The Paris of Southwestern France

The lush Bordeaux region sits regally on the edge of the Atlantic in southwestern France. The city of Bordeaux (same name) has a rich history and an even richer present as the gateway to one of the most fabled wine regions of France.

This area, known as the Aquitaine. was a medieval political focal point as one of the largest regions of France helmed not by a king, but a powerful woman: Eleanor of Aquitaine. Bordeaux city served as her power seat when she married young Henry II. Soon the two reined over a French/English kingdom famed as much for courtly love, as cruelty and bloodshed (see The Lion in Winter movie, a real-life royal struggle that paved the way for the likes of Game of Thrones).

Read More

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: A Medieval Gem in the French Dordogne

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: A Medieval Gem in the French Dordogne

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is a tiny village, population 220, in the Lot Department in southern France. This tiny hamlet is perched 400’ above the River Lot on a broad promontory overlooking a picturesque valley. Some years ago it was voted the #1 Most Beautiful Village in France. Consequently it sees a lot of tourists—so arrive early in the morning if you want to avoid the crowds!

Read More

Sonoma Wine Country Offers Some Gems

Sonoma Wine Country Offers Some Gems

Just 45 minutes north of San Francisco lies Sonoma Wine country, one of the trendiest grape-growing enclaves in Northern California. Many know Napa with its famed vintners and Micheline-starred restaurants. But Sonoma is its more rustic—and more accessible—cousin over the hill, home to more than 425 wineries ranging from rustic to regal.

Read More

Juicy Food Photography--Does it Make you Want to Take a Big, Delectable Bite?

Juicy Food Photography--Does it Make you Want to Take a Big, Delectable Bite?

Photographing food can be a tricky process, although certainly a delicious one. The shot above was taken in real time, in a real dining setting where no special lighting was used. At times like this, we feel a shot from above helps focus on the food, rather than the surroundings. (Sometimes an I-Phone’s special settings help with focusing. But if your real-deal camera is available with high-powered settings, it could even be more dramatic.) Our Moto: if you can’t resist it, shoot it!

Read More